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Thread: Rewicking Kanger T3's with XC-116 braided ceramic wick

  
   
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    Rewicking Kanger T3's with XC-116 braided ceramic wick

    I'm happy to be a part of this new rebuildable forum... here's a cut/paste of a rewicking walkthru I wrote a while back. It applies for silica/other wicks as well (just sub in your favorite material)

    I had a few extra hours on hand to play around a little more with the XC-116 ceramic wick from SNG Vapor. I had already used it in my new IGO-L and really like the ease of setup and flavor there.

    I'm already a big Kanger T3 fan and have several filled T3s on hand. I've been wanting to rewick these as well as some old, used heads with the ceramic wick... not only to test how well it tasted but also if it dealt in any way with the leaking when filled less than 1ml.

    Materials... xc-116 ceramic, pretorched from sngvapor; 32g kanthal; bic lighter; curved tip crafting pliers; multimeter; nailclippers (for ceramic); wire snips; old T3 heads. Todd's Reviews has a T3 rewicking vid I had playing in the background for my first build... and b/c I could listen to him all day!



    T3 head broken down. (Old silica wick resting on pliers, xc-116 fit into T3 head grooves to verify fit. Ceramic much sturdier/thicker than silica.)

    Remove top post by hand by gently rocking upwards back and forth. Using the pliers, remove the pressfit metal post and rubber insulator. Remove old wick and wire.



    Cut a length of wire, heat til glowing with bic lighter. Since I wanted to minimize the amount of ceramic waste, I wrapped the wire coil close to the end and set the entire length of wick in the head while trapping the legs. The wick is substantial enough to wrap on without needing a support (needle, toothpick etc).



    Thread rubber stopper on one leg of the kanthal, hold the wick in place and slide down/maneuver into the hole with pliers. One wire leg will be trapped under the rubber against the metal body, the other is free and threaded thru the hole.

    I did have a few sets of heads (3 of 19 total) where I removed the rubber and couldn't get it back in no matter how much I tried; many were discolored and the rubber itself felt less stiff than other sets. I wonder if the juice affected them in some way. Held them aside and will try later.



    Bottom view, rubber seated with one leg trapped. Bend the threaded leg down in order to make room for the bottom metal post.

    Not pictured: replace bottom metal post with pliers, snip excess wire. Measure ohms... the 4 wraps on the heads ranged from 2.1 to 2.5 ohms.



    Check for hotspots. After a little prodding, all four wraps lit together nicely... I'm new to this so assume it's the ceramic doing the heavy lifting here.



    Replace top post. I did NOT use any floating/flavor/uncoiled wicks under the top post-- the ceramic is pretty thick and I don't think I could have gotten any in even if I wanted to.



    I just switched out the head on this T3 with the new ceramic since I know the flavor pretty well and love it a lot (The Plume Room, Creamy Chai Latte). I didn't empty/refill since it's getting to the point where I'd start thinking about refilling it to avoid the leaking I get when it's dips below a ml full, want to see if ceramic has any effect on that.





    Made 7 more heads for the other T3s.



    Refilled T3s, installed the new heads... Then I made 8 more replacements!

    16 heads total from the 12” wick sold by SNG Vapor, PLUS my IGO-L wick, AND I sent a couple inches to a friend to be used as a sleeve over SS mesh for his AGA-T2. I could have had one more wickhead, but I cut my last little bit lopsided/made a few wicks a little long and the unset wick there was just too tiny That's a lot of heads for one foot length. Good thing I bought two!

    So... the ceramic? Is awesome. It takes a few minutes to saturate, or a few pulls that taste gross. Then... just your juice. I never complained about silica before but the flavor with the ceramic is just... easier, for want of a better description. That, and the vapor production is much better/more consistent.

    The T3 wicks work best when cut flush to the white outer ring-- I had a few that hung out beyond and noticed those take longer to wick when first using for some reason, I thought they'd be better since they were longer. The shorter, more flush heads were noticeably better off the bat... just did these tonite so I have no idea about the long run. My second batch/replacement set of heads I intentionally cut flush/shorter than the first run for that reason.

    The ceramic makes the T3 much less “airy”... for me, I like an airy vape. I definitely have to give it a little more pull than with the stock silica (?) wicks, so this may be an interesting solution for those who don't like airy T3s. The 'tightness' eases up after some use, but still definitely different than stock T3 heads.

    The taste is clean, and for some reason I feel like I'm getting more nic than usual (stronger TH than before, as well as across the tongue.) Might be because I'm pulling harder/less airy, and I'm also just having fun with the plumes. I can't get a dry hit with the ceramic, though that wasn't a real problem with the T3 before for me-- I would get weak hits and low vapor and then gurgling/leaking, mainly b/c of issues when the clearo would leak onto the battery connection. I tried pulling and pulling at 3.8-4.2v (my favorite spot) on the ceramic and got a headache before I could get any sort of lessening of vapor/flavor. Still no leaking, but it's VERY early and not a good time to speculate about that.

    The ceramic's interesting too .. when I would pulse/check for hotspots, the wick itself retained a lot of heat and felt like I was touching metal or something if I grazed it with my fingertips. I noticed “shards”/strands of wick that made me nervous enough to wear a mask when working (you can see them on my fingertips in some pics); I tried to blow them off the heads/my hands with compressed air but am unsure if it did any good. The pretorched (prekilned?) wick seems to hold itself together very well-- no unravelling; the shards were tiny bits from cut ends (I used a nailclipper). I know I can buy this from Omega, but I wouldn't be comfortable using it not kilned/super torched. (I have a propane torch, but it defeats the “easy” purpose of this... plus, I think I could get at least 20 T3 heads from one 12” length...)

    All in all it was dead easy. I'm not a mechanically inclined person (though I do like diy/handmade) and this was so simple I kept checking to see if I was forgetting something or making a major mistake. I've only made up my IGO-L before and think this was much easier b/c of the lack of posts/screws. The thickness of the ceramic means fewer wraps to try and fit into the T3's space, and the sturdiness of it meant I could just wrap and go (I set up my “helping hands” but didn't need them). It got to be very zen-like, making these... strange to say but I enjoyed making them once I got the rhythm down I have several new T3 heads and whole clearos I'm waiting to rewick after seeing how these perform, but it'll be less of a task dealing with new than old.
    I think that's it. I know I talk a lot. Thanks for reading along

    Gallery: http://imgur.com/a/T4rnZ
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    Senior Member Stoneface's Avatar
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    This is great. I have tried 3 times to buy the XC-116 from SnG but it has sold out before I received the email alert. I will get my hands on some one day!
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    Full Member BlueSnake's Avatar
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    I had some laying around I hadn't used yet. Got it in a co-op. the xc-116 ceramic is the easiest build and best vape I've had with the T3 yet. The coil/wick should last a long time as the coil can be dry burned with no burning of the wick.

    I filled up my first one with Bucky's Genny Joose and I was in vaping heaven. At least until the wife confiscated it.
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    Thanks for sharing the info. This looks like a great built. I need to try the ceramic wick.
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    Thanks very much for the info! I'll be doing the same with my protank as soon as I can get my hands on this stuff lol
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    Hi, I tried this method but every time i do it, i get a NASTY burnt taste to it. it has great hit and vapor but i just cant get the burnt taste out. I've tried 3 rewick/coils and all of them have a burnt taste. i followed your instructions almost verbatim but no clue why it gives me a burnt taste!! any advice will be greatly appreciated!!
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    Administrator MattU29's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ktazz View Post
    Hi, I tried this method but every time i do it, i get a NASTY burnt taste to it. it has great hit and vapor but i just cant get the burnt taste out. I've tried 3 rewick/coils and all of them have a burnt taste. i followed your instructions almost verbatim but no clue why it gives me a burnt taste!! any advice will be greatly appreciated!!
    Your positive leg is glowing red, that's why your are getting the burnt taste. Try pulling the positive leg a little bit away from the coil when you wrap it and if that doesn't work you may try moving it closer to kill that hot leg. Also when you build it before you put it back together, dump a lot of juice in the little rebuilt head and make sure that it gets below your wick and fire the coil. Do this several times to get a little juice to build up, and it will help keep it from glowing so quick.
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattU29 View Post
    Your positive leg is glowing red, that's why your are getting the burnt taste. Try pulling the positive leg a little bit away from the coil when you wrap it and if that doesn't work you may try moving it closer to kill that hot leg. Also when you build it before you put it back together, dump a lot of juice in the little rebuilt head and make sure that it gets below your wick and fire the coil. Do this several times to get a little juice to build up, and it will help keep it from glowing so quick.
    I'm sorry but which is the positive leg? im very new to rebuilding coils so any pointers will be greatly appreciated!
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    Administrator Doggin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ktazz View Post
    I'm sorry but which is the positive leg? im very new to rebuilding coils so any pointers will be greatly appreciated!
    The positive leg is the wire going through the center of the the ceramic cup. This diagram from MattU29 may help you visualize it.

    The positive leg is on the right and through the center of the ceramic cup. The negative leg is the one on the left coming straight down.
    Last edited by Doggin; 06-22-2013 at 05:42 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doggin View Post
    The positive leg is the wire going through the center of the the ceramic cup. This diagram from MattU29 may help you visualize it.

    The positive leg is on the right and through the center of the ceramic cup. The negative leg is the one on the left coming straight down.

    Thanks will try again and let you know how it goes(terrible or not lol)
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